To remove hard water spots from your paint used to be a nightmare.You had to buff with hard core compounds and that is not the best for your paint,but you had to do what you had to do.
Well I began to research hard water and conferred with a scientist about the issue of hard water spots on car paint.He educated me.
Google says use vinegar blah blah blah.Apply vinegar
wait ninety seconds and all your hard water is gone.
Good luck with that.
Vinegar Might work on real easy stuff but it never works on hard core, attached hard water.
Hard water spots come from minerals in the water.The minerals search for mineral sites,and once they find the site, they chemically attach.
When you buff with a high speed buffer the heat from the wool pad breaks the bond but it is not completely effective.You cannot get a buffer in the tight spots around the trim,mirrors etc. So what to do?
Chemical removal.Yes that's right chemically remove the hard water spots.
Okay with what chemical?It is a combination of Hydrofluoric and hydrochloric acid.Yes that's right and it works, and is it simple, painless and effective.It kicks ass.
Keep in mind you better follow instructions to a tee.
Scroll to bottom to purchase from Amazon
By the way, after this process you will remove all wax so you will have to re wax your car.
FYI I do not use wax but a hydrophobic coating.
Hydrofluoric acid is a dangerous chemical and if you have asthma or any breathing disorder,use a respirator
IF ANYONE TELLS YOU YOU HAVE TO BUFF,WET SAND ETC.ETC. ETC.
WITHOUT TRYING ACID,THEY ARE ROOKIES AND DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.TRY ACID FIRST
I told my guy to try vinegar. We wasted a lot of time.
I have heard all the horror stories. "We need to buff it off", "Uh we need to wet sand". How much for that? $400.
Hey, these things have their place,but 9 times out of ten acid takes it off.
The acid bath had it off in ninety seconds.
I have been using CRL for years and tried 3d eraser and it works good.The 3d is a gel so not sprayable.
In the picture below you see a door of a car on the bottom of the door you can see hard water that has been removed.
The two products below work equally well.You can dilute the CRL 50/50 and spray it.The 3 D is a gel so not able to spray
Keep in mind that when using CRL or any other acid on glass that it can etch the glass.If you apply this product to glass,if it dwells to long on the surface it will etch it.This means it will look hazy.
If the hard water does not remove easily then it is most likely etched your glass and there is no solution that I know.
Call me with questions 904 377 3884.I answer fro 9 am to 8 pm
Unless I am on vacation.
Below are the pics from the video above.This was done with acid.By the way the hard water I am talking about is the kind that comes out of a sprinkler system.Yes true city water is hard to but nothing like well water.
The amazon tags will take you to crl water spot remover.It is a combination of hydrofluoric and hydrochloric acid.
One of the tags is for a quart and the other is for a gallon.
To prevent hard water attachment
I have seen people spend hours trying to remove hard water ,to no avail.
Some say vinegar(an acid in its own right),but in my experience vinegar will not remove any hard core water spots.
Keep in mind,you do need to use this acid carefully.If you do the research it can actually dissolve glass.
So the one million dollar question.How do you use it.
I buy the product at the janitor supply store.It is called aluminum brightener.The aluminum brightener does work but the CRL stuff seems safer.
.I spray on COOL glass and let it dwell(sit on the glass)for thirty to forty five seconds and then rinse.I do one window at a time.
It is safe on the paint so you do not have to worry about your paint being ruined,but every surface should be cool to the touch and do not do this process in the sun.
If you have anodized running boards,be careful as the acid will etch those.
When taking hard water from paint